Finding Magic in a dying village

Our trip to Lake Bolsena was interrupted when I navigated myself to the Cathedral in Orivieto and we spent the entire day there.  So we again set out to visit the lake and it’s sights.  We were, however, intrigued by a town about 12 km from the town of Bolsena called Bagnoregio, or more specifically, Civita di Bagnoregio. 

I was able to bypass Orvieto and make our way to the lake town of Bolsena.  The Bolsena cathedral was actually where the miracle of the consecration took place that is now housed in Orvieto’s cathedral.  The town otherwise was quaint and Italian.  The lake was serene and similar in size to Lake Trasimeno.

City street of Bolsena

The Rocca or fort.

A family of swans near the lakes edge.

We pressed on to Bagnoregio, to what is called “the dying village” of Civita.  A bit of history: (origins of the village date back to the Bronze age (1100-1000 B.C.) and in the Etruscan period expanded over the rest of the plateau of Bagnoregio.  Due to its location, erosion and landslides have continued to wear away the plateau over the centuries to what it looks like today).  With a population of 8 and dwindling, the only thing that is growing is the ever-present number of cats.  When you cross the foot bridge and walk up the hill to this town, you are swept back to a time that has stood still for hundreds of years.  Etruscan and Roman architecture are everywhere along with more modern buildings from the middle ages.  You can enjoy meals there as well as a few shops that sell wine and copies of Etruscan jewelry, but it takes about an hour to see every corner of this village.  There are nine B&B rooms if you want to really take in this amazing place.

The "dying village" of Civita

Making the long walk up the foot bridge

Some Roman columns

Erosion eating away at this town

"King Cat" sitting on this throne.

The center of the village.

Chris and the setting sun.

We left Civita in awe and speculated just how much longer this “dying village” could hang on.  If you ever do come to Italy or the Umbria District specifically, make your way to this magical place.